The Eye of the Kiger

This Blog is for entertainment purposes only. The thoughts and objectives of this Blog are my own and in no way reflective of Anderson Manufacturing's build processes or procedures. Always consult a licensed gunsmith when modifying any firearm. Enjoy.

The Eye of the Kiger

If you're anything like me, you like to be in-tune with the form and function of your firearm; especially if it's going to be trusted as your everyday carry. I have found that building my own brings me that confidence and satisfaction of knowing that every piece installed is correct and functions accordingly, while also offering added insight should I ever have the need to troubleshoot or correct a malfunction.

Today, we will be focusing on the Kiger-9c Stripped Frame and installing the Kiger-9c Pro EXT Controls Frame Parts Kit. This is a task that can seem overwhelming at a glance, but I hope to show you that it is not.

For this blog piece, you are going to follow along with me on a journey to build my wife a Kiger just like mine because she loves to fire it. I did my best to replicate what it would be like for a builder who is in their home workspace. With that being said, I will not be utilizing the fixtures that I have at my leisure here at the shop in Hebron, KY. I will be using a minimal amount of tools to aid me in the completion of this frame. The tools I have selected are: a dual sided hammer- one side is brass, for direct contact with punches, and the other is polymer, for contact with parts and pins to mitigate blemishes throughout the build process. For punches, I went with a 3/32 #3 Starter Punch, a flat face finishing punch (blue handle) and a 1/8 Starter Punch and a pick. Take this journey with me as I build my wife her own Kiger Frame!

Selecting a Frame

At the time of this build, there are three options: FDE, ODG and Black. I chose to go with ODG because it is my wife's favorite color and she really wants a Kiger, so... easy decision.

(This happens to be my favorite color as well, may be swapping my black frame out in the near future)

Select a Parts Kit

At the time of this build, there are two options: The Kiger-9c Parts Kit and the Kiger-9c Pro Extended Controls Parts Kit. For this build, I have decided to go with the Pro option as my EDC Kiger has extended controls and the wife seems to be pretty comfortable with their functionality. The process remains the same no matter which Kiger Frame Parts Kit you choose.

Remove the Locking Block

The Locking Block is located above where your slide lock will be installed, see the picture above for reference. The Locking Block is removed by simply by upward force and should not be difficult to remove at all, I say this because if it is giving you issues on removal then you could be working on the wrong part or are working against the way it is seeded into your frame (which could damage the frame). See the image below, I take a flat edged tool (i.e: pocket knife, eyeglass flathead screwdriver) and gently pry around the edges of the Locking Block, much like a paint can. Once I am able to get it above the frame and able to grab it, I lift the locking block directly upward until it is free.

Stripped Frame, Kiger-9c Pro EXT Parts Kit and some tools

Start Building- Installing the Magazine Release

As pictured above, I'm going to take my starter punch and mate it up to my magazine release spring.

In the picture below, you will see where the channel is located in my frame.

Using my starter punch to assist, I lower the magazine release spring into its channel, I will press the spring into the channel so that it seeds completely in place.

Editor's Note: I like to slide the starter punch over the spring and gently tap (don't drive it) the punch to ensure that there is no movement and the spring is completely in place.

Now, our next step is to get the Kiger-9c Magazine Catch installed. For this step, I utilize my punch to gently leverage my Magazine Release Spring from pressing against the frame with just enough space to slide my Magazine Catch in place (freely, without obstruction). Once my Magazine Release Button (Magazine Catch) is in place, I release the tension on the spring. The picture above displays the channel (the L shaped channel) that your spring needs to lock into on the Magazine Catch. To lock the spring in place, I utilize the pick. I take the pick in through the bottom of the magazine well and position it under the spring from the left side (picatinny facing away), once I have that spring resting on my pick, I use a rolling motion (using the frame as a leverage point) to roll the spring into its respective channel, locking it in place. See below for a post-installation visual.

Magazine Release Function Test

When testing your magazine release functionality, pay attention to how your magazine release works with your magazine. I hear an audible click when my magazine locks in

The Kiger-9c ships (to most states) with a PMAG™ 15 GL9 giving you a capacity of 15+1. Using an empty PMAG™ GL9 Magazine (the orange follower should be apparent), I insert it into the magazine well to ensure it locks in properly. Once I've established that the magazine is able to lock in place, I press the Magazine Release Button and the magazine drops freely. If I were to experience any issues with this function check, I would revisit Step Four, to ensure that my Magazine Release Spring and Magazine Release Button are installed properly.

Install Slide Lock

The Slide Lock is key in the assembly and disassembly of my Kiger build and prevents your slide from launching down range with your first rounds, this assembly consists of two parts, your Slide Lock Spring and your Slide Lock. First, we will install your Slide Lock Spring.

Pictured above is my Slide Lock Spring. As I am looking at my frame, the Slide Lock Spring channel is located just above the front of my trigger guard and slightly in front of where the locking block once was. As it sits in the visual above, I will take the longer leg of this spring and press it into the channel. To ensure that my Slide Lock Spring is all the way in place, I take my finishing punch and tap it to the portion of the spring that is in the channel to ensure of no further movement and that it is completely seeded in place.

Once I'm certain my Slide Lock Spring is in place and secure, I utilize that finishing punch on the other end of the spring to ensure that there is tension by pressing downward, once pressure is released, the spring should actuate upward into its original position.

Slide Lock with Slide Lock Spring, smooth side toward muzzle

My next step is to install the Slide Lock. The Slide Lock is pictured above paired with the Slide Stop Spring. Install on this part is fairly simple, I keep pressure on the back end of my Slide Stop Spring and with the tall part facing up and smooth side facing the muzzle, I feed my Slide Lock through the channel (if I have trouble feeding my Slide Lock through, then the Slide Lock Spring is impeding your progress, either it doesn't have enough pressure on it or it is not seated all the way into its respective position). Once my Slide Lock is in place and the exterior controls (serrated ends) are sitting even on either side of the frame, I release tension on the spring, this locks the Slide Lock in place. See below for post-installation visual.

Trigger Assembly Install

We've got the wife's frame spittin' out and accepting magazines properly and her Slide Stop set in place, our next move is the trigger assembly. This part is an assembly and consists of four separate parts, the connector, trigger housing, trigger spring and trigger w/ trigger bar (one piece). (see above for reference on trigger assembly parts)

Trigger Housing (Left) with Connector (Right)

The first step to installing the trigger is to install my connector into the trigger housing. Upon examination of the trigger housing, I take notice that one side has a diagonal channel where the connector will go, at the end of that channel is where the flat end of the connector is going to lock into the trigger housing.

Next, we will be installing the trigger spring into your trigger housing. Disregarding your connector, the steel part of your housing is your ejector, I reference this as the front of my trigger housing. With that being said, at the rear of the Trigger Housing, there is a hole; this will be the point of install for my trigger spring. I loop one end of the trigger spring into this hole with the open end facing up as the springs lies forward, reference picture below.

Trigger Spring Installed into Trigger Housing, notice that the end that's not connected has the open end facing downward

This next step takes a little finesse on my end, we are going to install the trigger/trigger bar into the trigger housing. On the back side of the trigger bar, there is a flat drop-down with a hole, this is where the other end of the trigger spring will install. Pay close attention to the indent below this hole, this is an intentional channel for your spring to lie properly. With the open end facing the floor connect your trigger spring ensuring that the spring lies in that indentation. (see below)

Trigger Bar Connected with Trigger Housing via Trigger Spring

Now, the finesse piece. I examine the back side of my trigger bar and your trigger housing, I see that the trigger bar needs to drop into the housing while also fitting into the side-cut on the housing and position properly to function with the connector (between the two posts), all while maintaining that proper trigger spring placement (in that indention on the trigger bar). I pull the trigger bar out to where I have some tension on the trigger spring and cant it away slightly from the trigger housing until I have the clearance to simultaneously swing the trigger bar into the side slot of the trigger housing and seed the trigger properly in the trigger housing without compromising Trigger Spring placement. (see below)

Pairing the Trigger Bar and Trigger Housing

Now, comes the easy part, in the rear of my frame, I see a cutout for your trigger housing and mid frame (coming out inside of the trigger guard) I see a cutout for the trigger itself. I seat the complete Trigger Assembly into place.

Pin Work, Slide Catch and Locking Block Install

In this step, we are going to begin by pinning the Trigger Housing in place. I placed a repeat visual below as it is a good representation of the three pins and where they will install. The Trigger Housing Pin is pictured below, far right; it is the shortest-length pin and the only one that is completely smooth.

Pinning the Trigger Housing into my Frame is quick and painless. I just look through my Trigger Housing hole and ensure the housing hole is aligned, once they are aligned, I install my pin. If it's aligned perfectly, I'm able to hand press the pin into place. Once the pin is in, I utilize the softer side of my hammer or grab my finishing punch to balance the pin on both sides of your Frame. (see below)

My Left Thumb is Pointed at the Trigger Housing Pin Hole

Let's get this Locking Block locked-in, we are almost there! I see on the back side of the Locking Block, two cuts and two pin holes. I seat my Locking Block in place, this encases my Trigger and Slide Lock into the frame. I ensure that I have seeded your Locking Block all the way in place, I always give a few gentle taps with the finishing punch to be safe. Once I have the Locking Block seated in place, I install the Locking Block Pin. This is the top hole above my Trigger and the pin is the long, slim one that has a 'barbell' type contour to it. I ensure that my holes are lined up, insert the pin and secure it in place utilizing the softer-side of my hammer or finishing punch.

Once I have my Trigger Housing Pin balanced and the Locking Block in place, I move on to the Trigger Pin and Slide Catch. The Slide Catch (pictured below) requires some minimal prep work. Looking closely at my Slide Catch, the button is easily recognizable, at the opposite end I find the pin hole and the spring. Without manipulating the spring too much, I gently pull it over until it seeds into the slight groove that runs around the exterior.

Gently Moving My Slide Catch Spring into the Groove

Speaking of grooves! I examine the left, top side of my frame; almost adjacent with the Magazine Release, I see a smoothed out surface, that is where my Slide Catch 'button' or 'lever' will sit, the rest of the part slides into the frame, tucked against the left side of my frame, beside the Trigger (ensuring that my spring doesn't fall out of the groove).

Frame, Slide Catch, Install — Slide Catch

Next, we are going to pin the Trigger. This pin is the thickest one of the three and has two serrations in the middle of it. This pin is installed by hand, I check to ensure that my Slide Catch, Locking Block and Trigger holes are aligned with my Frame's. Once they are aligned, I push the pin through, I hear an audible 'pop' at some point, this is my Slide Catch locking in place (remember, this step includes a few parts being pinned, I toggle them as my Locking Block allows, should I feel any obstructions). Once I hear the audible 'pop', I am clear to proceed cautiously with the soft side of my hammer or finishing punch (remembering that I don't want to force anything). Once I have the pin all the way set, I ensure it sits flush, then balance the pin out on either side.

We have completed the wife's Kiger Frame but there's one final step! Where my Trigger Bar and Connector meet, in the rear of the Frame, I place a couple drops of oil in there (where metal touches metal). Now, work your Trigger Bar forward, it should lock forward. Now, squeeze your Trigger and your Trigger Bar should reset. I repeat this process a few times to ensure that oil gets evenly dispersed to points of friction or metal on metal contact.

Something tells me that our next adventure is going to be a Slide. Ladies and Gentlemen, I appreciate you stopping by and I hope that you all follow me on my next build adventure. See you next time!